IF IT’S TUESDAY, IT MUST BE DELHI? (Feb. 3)

A quick breakfast at the motel, settling of bills, and we were off on a different bus to Delhi for the day. We got a bit confused because we had to take only one bag with us that we might use during the day; we had to send a full bag for the remainder of the week in our old bus with Suresh and Ragu, who were going to drive the bus on to Ranthambore and meet us tomorrow morning at the train station; and if we had another bag or bags that we wanted to leave locked up at Sanjiv’s office, we were to put them in the back luggage compartment of the new bus, so the new driver could swap off to Divan after dropping us off at the train station later that evening. Are YOU confused yet?

We got everything straightened out, and off we were on another adventure. It took us about two-and-a-half hours to drive into the city, where we met Pallavi (Sanjiv’s daughter and my niece) who was to stay with us for the remainder of our journey over the next several days. We would meet in the parking area at Cote Minar – the largest minaret in all of India and the second largest in the world. We would also meet our guide for the day. Lots of school buses arrived at about the same time we did, bringing students of all ages to view this marvelous blending of Hindu and Muslim or mogul architecture. After our tour there, we re-boarded the bus to be driven to the Lotus Temple – one of the modern architectural wonders of India. This is the temple of the b’hai faith, and again a few dozen school buses were at that location. When one enters the grounds of the Lotus Temple, there is a quiet and a calm that pervades the entire campus. It is so peaceful there, it is no wonder that people of all faiths come there to pray or to meditate. After removing our shoes we walked up the steps to the entrance. Just before entering, one of the many volunteers asked that we not speak once we entered the building, out of respect for others and to allow others to pray and to meditate in silence. Scripture passages from several religions were exhibited in the nine alcoves, again a testament to the practice of the b’hai faith that it encompasses all religions.

Following these two tours, we were driven down into Connaught Circus, where the Britishers, as they are called here, had established the center of New Delhi. We enjoyed lunch at a South Indian restaurant – Saravana Bhawa. Since most of us had no clue as to what to order, we let Pallavi order the same meal for the entire team. If you have never eaten South Indian food, it is so distinct from what most people feel is the representative taste of India – that of curries. We were treated to idlies, and sambar, and various sauces, and dosas and dessert. It was a most enjoyable lunch. Some of us went to the ATM located around the side of the building from where we had eaten. We gathered at a predetermined street, and waited for our new driver to arrive to take us to the oldest section of Delhi.

We were driven right to the end of the street, where the largest mosque is located, and we climbed the forty or fifty steps to enter. Once again, we removed our shoes and the ladies were asked to cover their heads, as well. We were told this mosque, when used for organized worship can accommodate some 30,000 people! Many men were sitting at the edge of the fountain pool in the center of the courtyard area, where they were washing their faces, hands and feet, before entering the mosque for prayer. Some also drank the water from the same pool. Some merely took a small bucket of the water and poured it over their heads. This exercise served to cleanse the men before prayers.

Earlier in the day, I had asked Pallavi to arrange for us to be taken on bicycle rickshaws through the streets and alleys of this oldest section of Delhi – where literally thousands of shops are crammed into tiny spaces. We descended the steps from the mosque and our bicycle rickshaws and drivers were waiting for us. We climbed aboard and off we went. The tinkling of tiny bicycle bells amidst the cacophony of beeps from auto-rickshaws (tuk-tuks) and horns from cars and trucks, assaulted our hearing sense, but we were about to enter the realm of sensory overload.

Buffeted up against other rickshaws, motorized or not, and bumping into people carrying parcels or ten-foot lengths of iron pipe; bales of cardboard or bolts of fabric; it made no difference – THIS was Delhi. Within only a few yards, one can purchase padlocks and silk saris, and hanging mutton from the butcher to the finest of gold jewelry. We passed mothers and daughters sitting on benches outside fabric shops where they were choosing material to be fashioned into wedding dresses. Vendor after vendor sold sweets or snacks. We looked up at a truly amazing sight – that of literally hundreds of power lines and telephone lines criss-crossing and all bunched up at the corners of streets and alleys (can you spell spider web?) How this all works is truly miraculous, but it all DOES work. As we proceeded along the way, our drivers entered ever-narrower alleys until we could literally reach out and touch the walls on both sides simultaneously. And yet, commerce was taking place before our eyes in its finest form – that of free enterprise.

We were spewed out of this madness onto the street and pedaled across the main road to the entrance to the Red Fort. We jumped down from our chariots and proceeded into the Red Fort. Since this location had been used for Republic Day events, evidence of some of the bleachers, as well as crowd control barriers were still visible. The nation’s flag flew proudly above the parapet, where the Prime Minister often will deliver remarks on such occasions. Our tour of Red Fort was somewhat abbreviated, due to the fact that we still had to be taken to the train station to board the night train for Ranthambore. We did learn, however, about the fact that the British destroyed eighty percent of the buildings originally constructed and barracks for the British army were erected in their place. Not that the barracks were so bad architecturally, but what a shame to tear down buildings, rather than adapting existing ones. We walked through the main gate and then through what had once served the maharaja and maharani as the bazaar. We also visited the various white marble palaces and the baths. The restoration of some of these buildings is quite remarkable and it is nice to realize that someday these buildings and others might be returned to their previous splendor. While we were inside the Red Fort, I noticed a KICK POLIO OUT OF INDIA cap a gentleman was wearing. It also displays the Rotary International emblem. I called to him, pointed out the rotary emblem on my shirt, and he waited for me to get to him. We shook hands and introduced ourselves. He is from Italy, and also had come to India to participate in the NID activities on February 1st. He was also interested in learning about our work project, and may very well be interested in bringing a few Rotarians from Italy next year, when we are working on yet another project.

Following our tour, we once more boarded the bus. On the way to the train station, we were able to stop for a comfort break at The Oberoi Hotel – one of the most beautiful hotels any of us had ever seen. Someday, I would like to return there, just to be able to see the entire facility. Also along the way, I realized it was time for me to call into the Fox NEWS affiliate in Portland, Maine, for an on-the-spot interview with Ray Richardson and Ted Talbott. The connection was not a good one, but I did hear there had been a substantial storm from which most of southern Maine was digging out. We entered the station and walked to the platform, where we waited just a few minutes, before boarding our coaches for the late night journey to Ranthambore – for the tiger preserve safaris.